You bet most Filipinos are coffee lovers. Despite the hot weather, some would still want to drink a hot cup of coffee. Whether it’s a cup of instant coffee or a specialty one, Filipinos have different ways on how they can enjoy their cups.
The community of homebrewers in the Philippines is growing, and Filipinos are starting to get to know coffee more, from plant to cup. However, not everyone knows how Philippine coffee began here.
How Coffee Began in the Philippines
If the Goatherd Kaldi discovered coffee in Ethiopia, who introduced this magnificent drink to Filipinos? Here’s a quick overview of the history of coffee in the Philippines.
In the famous story about coffee’s discovery, the first homebrewers were monks from Ethiopia, where they made the beverage by boiling the cherries. Also, there’s another story about how coffee traveled overseas because of missionaries and interlopers, which somehow links to how this plant reached the Philippines.
Let’s go back to the year 1730 when the Spaniards introduced coffee in the country. The first coffee tree was planted by a Franciscan friar in Lipa, Batangas, and it was a variety from Mexico, one of the top producers of coffee worldwide. Later on, Augustinian friars named Benito Varas and Elias Nebreda planted the coffee plant around Batangas, like Tanauan, Taal, San Jose, Lemery, and Ibaan.
In 1865, after the American Civil War, we became the exporter of Barako coffee to San Francisco, California. After the Suez Canal was opened, we began exporting bags of coffee to Europe.
In 1876, Cavite began producing their coffee but Batangas remained as the primary producer of coffee in the country, where the cost of Barako cost as much as Java coffee beans from Indonesia.
In 1880, this was the era where the Philippines became the fourth biggest exporter of coffee worldwide. There was also a time where we became the only supplier of coffee around the world because of the coffee rust plague, which affected Java, Africa, and Brazil. However, the plague reached us, and it also affected the production, causing farmers to transfer their seedlings to Cavite.
On the bright side, back in the 1950s, a variety that’s more resistant to plant diseases was introduced in the country, and that’s when the hype of instant coffees began.
Since the day coffee was introduced in the country, Filipino farmers produced coffee through Liberica and Robusta varieties until they started planting Arabica varieties.
Nowadays, consumers are getting more interested in specialty coffee, and farmers also increased their production of Arabica coffee.
Filipinos Throughout the Coffee Wave
The Coffee Wave is the so-called coffee trend, and like other countries who love drinking the beverage, we’ve gone through the coffee waves.
We have undoubtedly gone through the first wave, being the fourth biggest importer of coffee around the world. Seventy percent of the coffee we produced is used for instant coffees or commodity coffees.
We have adjusted well during the second wave when commercialized cafés began dominating most streets in the country, especially in Manila. However, we didn’t focus on the coffee itself, but on the café’s ambiance or flavored beverage. We were stuck for quite some time, and even up to now, some Filipinos drink coffee not because of the coffee, but because of the café. Things changed around the year 2010 onwards when the industry started to get into specialty coffee.
Now, the Philippine Coffee industry is already in the third wave. Local cafés focus more on using bags of specialty coffee while their baristas teach consumers about the coffee they are drinking. When the pandemic started, the number of homebrewers increased. Regardless of any profession or career, people brew their coffee at home using specialty coffee beans.
Where Coffees Grow: The Origins
Manual brewing is becoming trendier, and it’s one of the reasons why we opened ourselves to the third wave. At first, imported bags of coffee from Brazil, Ethiopia, and Indonesia caught our attention, and only a few supported local coffees. The goodness is undoubtedly there for imported ones, and it’s caused by a lot of factors, mainly in the processing part. That’s when PCBI or the Philippine Coffee Board Inc., a private sector-led group, began helping out in improving local coffees.
PCBI conducted some events, like farming courses, farm tours, coffee shop seminars, and trade shows, as a part of their commitment, which is to teach and inspire farmers around the country. Filipino homebrewers today are starting to support local coffees, and if you’re one of them, here are some coffee origins to keep in mind.
Cordillera Administrative Region
This region is known for being mountainous, which is the best area to plant coffee. Areas with high elevation produce exceptional Arabica coffee beans, and this region’s altitude ranges from 1,000 MASL to 1,800 MASL (meters above sea level).
Varieties that farmers grow are the following:
- Typica
- Mondo Novo
- Caturra
- Yellow Bourbon
- Red Bourbon
- Garnica
Northern Luzon
Moving on the north-western part of the country down to central Luzon, areas are ideal for cultivating both Arabica and Robusta beans.
Ilocos Sur is one of the top producers of coffee, while in the Southern part of the country, we have Bulacan and Nueva Viscaya. The altitude of these areas ranges from 300 MASL to 900 MASL, which is lower compared to CAR areas. These areas may not have high elevation, yet we can still produce coffee.
Varieties that farmers grow are the following:
- Robusta
- Catimor
Calabarzon Region
This region is where coffee started, in Batangas. Cavite may be the second smallest province in the region, but it has two mountain ranges with an elevation of 400 MASL. As for Laguna, it’s home to some mountains, which are also referred to as inactive volcanoes. These areas’ soil conditions are excellent for growing Robusta coffee, yet the elevation is too low to grow quality Arabica beans.
Varieties that farmers grow are the following:
- Robusta
- Excelsa
- Liberica (Kapeng Barako)
MIMAROPA Region
Mindoro is the seventh biggest island in the Philippines, and it has rivers, hills, valleys, freshwater lakes, plains, and mountains. It’s also one of the well-known producers of coffee in the southwestern part of Luzon.
Varieties that farmers grow are the following:
- Robusta
- Excelsa
Visayas
Compared to coffee-growing areas in Luzon, Visayas has a higher altitude, ranging from 500 MASL to 1,000 MASL. The micro-climate of its islands is excellent for growing coffee, even for the Arabica variety.
Palawan has been a part of Visayas since 2005, and it can also grow coffee because its mountainous, having a peak of above 2,000 meters.
Bohol has low mountain ranges, but it’s also ideal for growing coffee.
As for Negros Occidental and Negros Oriental, these areas have volcanic soil, which makes it very suitable for planting coffee despite the elevation. Some of our local coffees grow from Mount Kanlaon, a dormant volcano.
Varieties that farmers grow are the following:
- Robusta
- Excelsa
- Arabica
Mindanao
Mindanao is very popular in the industry for cultivating different varieties, and it’s known for supplying quality coffee because of the climate and soil condition. Plus, the elevation ranges from 700 MASL to 1,200 MASL, and included here is the highest mountain in the country.
Some of the top places that grow quality coffee are Bukidnon, Cotabato, and Davao, where Mt. Apo is.
Varieties that farmers grow are the following:
- Typica
- SV-2006
- Catimor
- Mysore
- Robusta
- Excelsa
If you want to experience different coffees from a different origin, we have our Philippine Coffee Set. Our set will let you experience four different Arabica coffee beans and a Robusta coffee bean in one box.
Check out coffee origins where we source our coffee beans.
Coffee Production in the Philipines: Varieties and Their Flavor Notes
With climatic and soil conditions, the Philippines can produce the four main varieties of commercially viable coffee: Arabica, Robusta, Liberica (Barako), and Excelsa.
Everyone has their coffee preference, let’s dive into some coffee varieties that grow in the Philippines and their flavor notes according to tasters.
Arabica Variety
Typica
This variety is mostly grown in the northern part of the country. This variety typically grows from an elevation of 1,000 MASL to 1,500 MASL. Most of these coffee plants grow in the CAR region, and despite growing in different areas, some of the distinct flavor notes of the coffee beans are fruity, nutty, and chocolatey. If grown better, you might even taste caramel, yet this has something to do with the roasting method, too.
Bourbon
One of the places where this variety grows is also in the CAR region, and most of the time, you’ll find it under red bourbon. Since one of its attributes is sweetness, some tasters can detect sugar cane and green apple flavor notes. These notes are very distinct under the honey process.
Catimor
This variety is mostly grown in Mindanao, like Bukidnon and Davao, with an elevation ranging from 1,400 MASL to 1,700 MASL. The flavor notes are complex, depending on what origin the coffee grew. Coffee beans coming from Davao have sweet flavor notes, like brown sugar, and these also have fruity flavor notes, like jackfruits, nectarine, tropical fruits, and mango. Sometimes, with excellent processing and roasting, you might even pick up a winey taste.
Caturra
Sultan Kudarat is one of the areas that can produce this variety. Since it grows in a 900 MASL-elevation, its dark chocolate and nutty flavor notes are distinct.
Mysore
This variety grows in areas with higher elevation, such as 1,300 MASL. However, despite growing in a land with higher elevation, it has very low acidity. Some of the notes you’ll detect are also nutty and chocolatey.
Liberica Variety
This variety is very famous as “Barako” because of its bold taste and aroma. One misconception about this variety is that it’s bitter. It’s not as bitter as the Robusta variety. It also has distinct fruity flavor notes, like ripe jackfruits, but it’s not as smooth as the finish of an Arabica coffee.
Robusta Variety
Most of the coffee in the Philippines is under the Robusta variety since it can grow on lowlands, especially in areas like Cavite, Bulacan, and Mindoro. This variety is known to be robust, which is where it got its name, and it has a bold, bitter, earthy taste. Since it’s bitter by taste naturally, producers blend with Arabica coffee beans for espresso.
Excelsa Variety
The Excelsa variety grows in Batangas and Quezon province, which is why it’s mostly mistaken as Robusta or Liberica. The taste is somehow similar to the flavor notes of Liberica, like hints of jackfruit, but it’s sweeter compared to Liberica.
How Farmers Produce Coffee: The Process
Farmers are one of the factors that can influence your cup, but they put a lot of effort into making quality coffee compared to the efforts of roasters and homebrewers. The process is not easy, yet our Filipino coffee farmers do their best to produce the beverage we love.
Hand-picking Coffee Cherries for Better Quality
There’s one community from Benguet, Saddle Hartwell Lumbag Coffee Growers Association (SHALCOGA), that started as a mining community. But now, it’s one of the producers of coffee in Benguet. After the landslide incident that closed their mining business back in 2018, this community got into coffee farming with 50 to 80 members.
This producer uses selective picking by hand-method, and it’s the most tedious method in farming since you have to pick ripe cherries. The labor is intensive, but it’s the first step to producing quality coffee.
Coffee Farming Process by Filipino Farmers
Filipino coffee farmers use different processes, like farmers from other coffee-producing countries. Most coffees are grown under natural and washed processes, like coffees from CAR and Mindanao region. Most that are processed under natural and washed highlight fruity and nutty notes. Aside from the two processes, other coffee farmers use the honey process, which highlights sweet flavor notes, especially the coffees grown from Benguet.
Post-harvesting: Who Supports the Philippine Coffee?
Coffees grown in the country are seldom exported outside. The demand for Robusta coffee beans from our country has a big potential to earn more because of the production of instant coffees worldwide. However, most Arabica, Liberica, and Excelsa coffees grown here stay here. It’s one of the reasons why we should support local coffees.
Supporting local coffees should start from us. If we start recognizing the goodness of our coffees in the Philippines, it will trigger the curiosity of other consumers outside our country. If we can work together on how we can boost our coffees’ potential more, we can help our local farmers in their livelihood and have a significant contribution to our country’s economy.
Coffee Consumption During the Pandemic
It’s been over a year since the pandemic began, and it impacted the world in a less fortunate way. A significant number of people lost their lives from the COVID-19, while others lost their jobs, which made the situation harder. Some are doing their best to carry on. Despite the struggles, some Filipinos were able to find a silver lining through coffee. Cafés may have closed, but the consumption of coffee continues.
Support Needed by Local Coffee Farmers
Compared to other coffee-producing countries, we are very versatile. However, we still fall short when it comes to getting the right support because imported coffee beans are still preferred by most homebrewers in the Philippines. It’s not because we can’t grow quality coffee in the country, but because our Filipino coffee farmers need more support.
When asked what support is needed from our farmers, Tere Domine from Kalsada Coffee told us that our coffee farmers need financial support to improve their farms.
“At the moment, what we see is farmers don’t invest in soil and plant health because the income they get from selling their existing coffee is barely enough for basic needs.”
Tere Domine
Tere also stated that this lack of support becomes a cycle of low yield and low income.
Many coffee experts say that Philippine Coffee has a big potential and that we can improve our coffees through enhanced processing. While the community extends its support to teach farmers new ways on how they can improve their processes, there’s still a big space to fill when it comes to the equipment and other things they need in their farms.
Small contributions matter, which is why some businesses are allotting a small percentage of their sales for advocacy, even small businesses. It’s not mandatory, but if we can build a community like this in the Philippine Coffee industry, small contributions can become bigger. We’ll be able to raise a certain amount to help one farm at a time. Imagine how a small step can leave a big impact.
Some Notes from a Local Coffee Farmer
Aside from getting insights from Tere Domine, we were also able to interview one of our promising Filipino coffee farmers, Sergio Loon.
Mr. Sergio from Sergio-Loon Coffee Farm started farming back in the year 1970. We asked him what is one of the best moments of coffee farming. He shared with us how harvesting is becoming more like family bonding.
“Masaya po kapag buong pamilya kaming naghaharvest ng kape.”
Sergio Loon
We also asked him how the pandemic affected the business, and he said that the demand for coffee during the pandemic is still high. However, according to him, the demand was higher before the pandemic.
“Sa tingin ko po ay mas malaki po noong wala pang pandemic kasi mas marami ang mga coffee shops na bukas, at mas marami ang mga empleyadong nagkakape bago pumasok sa trabaho.”
Sergio Loon
Mr. Sergio’s beautiful message to all Filipino homebrewers touched us, and we believe all homebrewers should hear this one out.
“Ang mensahe ko po sa mga taong umiinom ng black coffee ay una po, maraming salamat dahil natutulungan nyo po kaming mga magsasaka ng kape. Pangalawa po ay kung maari sana, tulungan niyo kaming mga local producers ng kape sa pamamagitan ng pagtangkilik sa ating mga sariling kape, at tulungan kami na masugpo ang mislabeling ng local coffee.”
Sergio Loon
Support is very much needed and appreciated, which is why we should contribute what we can contribute to them. Buying products of a local coffee farmer is food on their table. If we can support them further financially, we can help them improve their products until it’s competitive enough for other coffee enthusiasts worldwide to try.
“Kami po ay bukas sa lahat ng mga bagong kaalaman upang masmapamaganda at mas mapasarap ang ating mga produktong kape dito sa Pilipinas. Ang kape ay hindi lang nagpapabuhay ng loob at utak, ito rin ay kabuhayan.”
Sergio Loon
Conclusion
The pandemic may have affected the coffee industry, leading to the closure of cafes during lockdowns. As we gradually cope up, some cafes closed for good, while others operate for take-out or deliveries. On the bright side, people who stayed most of their time at home found a new hobby, which is homebrewing, and the number of homebrewers significantly increased.
Baristas are not the only coffee enthusiasts these days. The community of homebrewers around the country already composes housewives, supervisors, teachers, graphic designers, and other professions. Coffee knows no profession, and it’s why our coffee industry is stable despite the ongoing pandemic.
Since more Filipinos are getting into homebrewing, our Filipino farmers have a reason to continue the cycle. If you need coffee every day to fuel up, then we should continue supporting our farmers. Let’s all look forward to drinking better coffees in the Philippines
References:
https://philcoffeeboard.com/philippine-coffee/
https://perfectdailygrind.com/2020/08/the-success-of-locally-produced-philippine-coffee-barista-championship-2020-specialty/
https://perfectdailygrind.com/2018/12/understanding-specialty-coffee-in-the-philippines/
https://guidetothephilippines.ph/articles/ultimate-guides/coffee-philippines-guide
https://perfectdailygrind.com/2015/06/is-the-philippine-coffee-industry-third-wave-insider-observations/
http://bpi.da.gov.ph/bpi/images/PDF_file/Coffee%20Industry%20Roadmap%20-%20Signed%20%20%20March%2010,%202017.pdf
https://theprimadonnalife.com/lifestyle/kapeng-barako-the-endangered-philippine-liberica/
https://primer.com.ph/blog/2017/07/29/types-of-coffee-that-grow-in-the-philippines/
